[Richard]

Superglue for me

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So I actually just went through and re-plumbed all the piping coming from the waste tank. When I did this I changed to the bayonet style connection on the end. 

I am not sure if all coaches were plumbed this way, but my gray waste line does not go into the top of the waste tank, its plumbed in between two Dupree valves with a Y connection. So there is a air operated Dupree valve just before the hose connection, and then there is another manual Dupree valve just before the waste tank, the gray line comes in between these two valves. I am assuming this was done so you could drain the gray water off separately if you wanted by closing the valve at the waste tank and opening the air operated valve. I will try to get a picture of the set up. But on the other hand if you want gray water to go into the waste tank, you have to open the manual valve at the tank and of course the air operated valve stays closed to keep everything contained. So here is the issue I am having, I filled the waste tank with water to test all my new connections and after all this work the manual valve is leaking. Its leaking around the body seal, so this is the rubber o-ring seal that is around the paddle assembly that slips down into the body of the valve. I am thinking this was an issue before as the previous owner had smeared silicone all over this area on the old valve. I though the leak was mainly because the old valve body had a crack but it appears that this may have been an issue as well. I am thinking that the Dupree valves are not rated to contain the pressure of a full tank with the valve in the open position, as that rubber o-ring around the paddle assembly is the only think keeping it sealed. 

So does anyone else have this similar situation of how their gray water is plumbed? 

Here is the o-ring I am talking about:
   

[Richard]

Almost all Newells of our era are plumbed that way to permit discharge of grey water if desired or permitted.

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Almost all Newells of our era are plumbed that way to permit discharge of grey water if desired or permitted.

Interesting, so you do not have an issue with leaking around your valve when it’s open? Maybe I got a bad valve. I really do not want to replumb this thing again, not sure that is even an option now.

[Latitude 28]

Hey Jeff, Don't re-plumb.....there is an o-ring under that rectangled block it should hold a full tank back pressure unless something is broken.  Let me look in the morning I may have one that will work or at least give you an idea what size you need.  I will also send you a picture of a tool I made to get that gate valve apart.....with an empty tank of course.

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Hey Jeff, Don't re-plumb.....there is an o-ring under that rectangled block it should hold a full tank back pressure unless something is broken.  Let me look in the morning I may have one that will work or at least give you an idea what size you need.  I will also send you a picture of a tool I made to get that gate valve apart.....with an empty tank of course.

Thanks Steve. I actually have replumbed it already and it’s a brand new valve. I did drain the tank and pulled the paddle assembly out to verify the o-ring was in place. I put some more plumbers grease on it and put it back in. I will test it again, maybe it just was not fully seated. Good to know it should not leak. I was a bit frustrated after all that work to replace it and it was still leaking.

[Richard]

Make sure the valve is fully retracted in order to backseat on the O ring.

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Make sure the valve is fully retracted in order to backseat on the O ring.

Not sure I follow but i will make sure it’s fully open.

[Richard]

When the top of the paddle is flush against the top of the valve assembly it will compress the o ring slightly in its recess.