[Dystrakti0n]

We are currently boondocking in the clatsop state forest in Oregon, and though we have only had constant rain, when we drive into town there are signs for "snow zone, snow tires or chains required". I'm buying chains for the GL350, but I have some questions on getting some for the coach. 

Chains: does anyone have brand/model recommendations. 

Drive axle: do I need chains just for the outside set of wheels or ones that cover both sets? 

Ride height: should I adjust the ride height up for better clearance of the chains? 

Tips and tricks: if anyone has tips and tricks for running with chains, I am all eyes and ears. I also get the best tip/trick is don't get yourself somewhere that you need chains. 

We were looking for some boondocking in the Olympic forest in Washington earlier in the month. Ended up being a hill climb from the get go, all the way up to the snow line. By the time we actually reached the end of private land, I started up a hill, and about 200 feet in, we were no longer going up hill. Ended up backing down, while threading the trailer into a single lane bridge  at a 90° turn, we had just passed to get turned around. ? With a wall of dirt on one side, and an unguarded cliff on the other, I got one attempt to get it right, since pulling forward wasn't an option to straighten out. 

To be quite honest, I rather go back to shoving C130s around fighter parking in an active combat zone than attempt that reverse feat again. 

I hope everyone is having a happy holiday season, and thanks in advance!

[cwl1979]

As a former commercial driver, and service member i got a good chuckle out of your post. That said Oregon is really wacky with their chain laws. From what i recall you need at a minimum, chains on the outside of each drive axle and, if your towing a trailer at least one axle worth of single chains. So if your towing a car, the front drivers tire and rear passenger tire needs a chain, or vise versa.

I drove through Oregon once with my Alaska rated chains, pulled into the scale and had to show them i had enough, they told me i better not use those on their roads. I had heavy weight 8mm Pewag star studded triples (cover both drives) and then some crappy singles for the trailer and steer if required.

As for a brand... If your going to need them and know it, I would invest in studded Trygg or Pewag. If your just looking to be legal, whatever they sell at loves will work.

Being in the lower 48 (as we Alaskans call it) you can also get away with tire socks. I have no idea about them though, they don't work on the grades we have in Alaska.

My personal favorite is an 8mm double space single from Pewag.

Page 12 of the following catalog   

2024 pewag USA Catalog DESKTOP.pdf Size: 84.57 MB  Downloads: 10

The best advice i can give you however is, put them on before you're in a bind. Once forward progress stops it's to late.

Second best is get them on tight! Sloppy chains cause massive damage and the break.

Third, don't forget you have a full locking differential. That will help but its not a cure.

Of course the other opinion is to avoid snow and cold at all costs.

[Dystrakti0n]

Carl,

First off, thank you for your service. A close second, thank you for your reply.

So to clarify in the catalog:

Am I looking at the "Studded Ladder" 8mm 2 link or 4 link spacing?

We end up on a lot of forest roads, those things look like they could come in handy for more than just snow.

[cwl1979]

I prefer the 2 link spacing. They are heavy but they can take some serious abuse/ usage. As a commercial driver using them all the time I'd wear out a set every two winters and have to buy new ones. They aren't cheap either. But worth every penny when you need them.

[[email protected]]

As a former commercial driver, and service member i got a good chuckle out of your post. That said Oregon is really wacky with their chain laws. From what i recall you need at a minimum, chains on the outside of each drive axle and, if your towing a trailer at least one axle worth of single chains. So if your towing a car, the front drivers tire and rear passenger tire needs a chain, or vise versa.

I drove through Oregon once with my Alaska rated chains, pulled into the scale and had to show them i had enough, they told me i better not use those on their roads. I had heavy weight 8mm Pewag star studded triples (cover both drives) and then some crappy singles for the trailer and steer if required.

As for a brand... If your going to need them and know it, I would invest in studded Trygg or Pewag. If your just looking to be legal, whatever they sell at loves will work.

Being in the lower 48 (as we Alaskans call it) you can also get away with tire socks. I have no idea about them though, they don't work on the grades we have in Alaska.

My personal favorite is an 8mm double space single from Pewag.

Page 12 of the following catalog   

The best advice i can give you however is, put them on before you're in a bind. Once forward progress stops it's to late.

Second best is get them on tight! Sloppy chains cause massive damage and the break.

Third, don't forget you have a full locking differential. That will help but its not a cure.

Of course the other opinion is to avoid snow and cold at all costs.



Can you provide info on the locking differential? is it like limited slip with discs somewhere in the diff?  

[cwl1979]

As a former commercial driver, and service member i got a good chuckle out of your post. That said Oregon is really wacky with their chain laws. From what i recall you need at a minimum, chains on the outside of each drive axle and, if your towing a trailer at least one axle worth of single chains. So if your towing a car, the front drivers tire and rear passenger tire needs a chain, or vise versa.

I drove through Oregon once with my Alaska rated chains, pulled into the scale and had to show them i had enough, they told me i better not use those on their roads. I had heavy weight 8mm Pewag star studded triples (cover both drives) and then some crappy singles for the trailer and steer if required.

As for a brand... If your going to need them and know it, I would invest in studded Trygg or Pewag. If your just looking to be legal, whatever they sell at loves will work.

Being in the lower 48 (as we Alaskans call it) you can also get away with tire socks. I have no idea about them though, they don't work on the grades we have in Alaska.

My personal favorite is an 8mm double space single from Pewag.

Page 12 of the following catalog   

The best advice i can give you however is, put them on before you're in a bind. Once forward progress stops it's to late.

Second best is get them on tight! Sloppy chains cause massive damage and the break.

Third, don't forget you have a full locking differential. That will help but its not a cure.

Of course the other opinion is to avoid snow and cold at all costs.



Can you provide info on the locking differential? is it like limited slip with discs somewhere in the diff?  

Mine has an air switch on the dash, right by the tag axle switch. In the Rockwell rear end is an air select locker. It makes it full lock, both sides turn equally. This could have been an option I suppose I did make the assumption that everyone had one. At least the older ones with Rockwells in the rear.

[Dystrakti0n]

My 91 does not have a locking differential. I believe it was optional.

[cwl1979]

Weird, I really thought that as high end as Newell is, everyone would have one. Bummer.

[[email protected]]

I cannot find any air switch. Owners manual mention it butmanual does not seem to be written for other options- strange.

[cwl1979]

2005 is new enough it may have a computer controlled auto locker. If not look for a switch that says diff lock      or shows a picture of the rear-end with an X in the middle Ill see if i can find a picture